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Wedding Jewelry, Old-World Diamonds, and the Return of Distinctive Cuts
Engagement rings have always reflected more than a single moment—they capture a bride’s personal style and the evolving expression of love. Today’s bride is informed, confident, and deeply personal in her choices. She isn’t necessarily looking for what’s traditional; she’s looking for what feels right.
“We’re seeing a renewed appreciation for distinctive diamond cuts and old-world elegance, and designs that balance heritage with modernity. Marquise and Old-Mine cuts, moval silhouettes, Asscher-cut bands, and warm cognac diamonds—styles rooted in history but worn in a distinctly contemporary way.”
The Influence of Modern Icons
Whenever a high-profile personality becomes engaged wearing an unexpected or non-traditional style, it naturally draws attention. Taylor Swift’s engagement sparked renewed interest in Old Mine cuts. Zendaya’s ring ignited a fascination with east-west settings, while Selena Gomez’s marquise diamond has brought this historic cut back into the conversation in a powerful way.
“There is always increased interest in the cut of a diamond after a celebrity engagement,” I often say. “But ultimately, it depends on the bride’s personality and taste. The most important thing is choosing a shape that feels authentic and flattering for you.”
Marquise Diamonds: Old-World Romance, Modern Appeal
The marquise cut has long embodied femininity. With origins tracing back to 18th-century France, it carries an unmistakable sense of romance and grandeur.
Today, it’s resonating with a new generation of brides who appreciate its elegance—but want it styled in a fresh way.“This shape ushers in the influence of old-world jewelry in a contemporary setting.”
“We’ve seen renewed interest in marquise diamonds from a more contemporary audience. What’s old is new again, as younger brides with an old soul are seeking these styles—drawn to recent designs featuring rose-cut marquise stones and even a four-carat, D-flawless marquise pendant accented with delicate pink diamonds. Its elongated silhouette often appears larger than its carat weight—a beautiful balance of impact and refinement.”
The Moval Cut: A Personal Favorite
For those drawn to marquise elegance but seeking something slightly softer, the moval cut—a hybrid between marquise and oval—is an exceptional option.
“My personal favorite is a moval cut,” It combines the drama of a marquise with the fluidity of an oval, resulting in a shape that is incredibly flattering and timeless.”
“Moval cut diamonds work beautifully in both traditional and east-west settings, offering versatility while remaining distinctive.”
East-West Settings: A New Perspective
“East-west engagement rings are not new, but they feel especially relevant now and are great options for the modern bride,” “By orienting stones east-west, classic diamond cuts are given a fresh perspective. The entire ring takes on a modern sensibility.”
This setting style also allows for creative expression, whether using a traditional white diamond or incorporating colored stones such as cognac diamonds or sapphires.
Cognac Desert Diamonds: Unique And Modern
“Cognac Desert diamonds continue to grow in popularity for brides seeking something distinctive, and that could never be mistaken for a lab-grown diamond. Their warm tones offer a striking alternative to traditional colorless stones while remaining timeless and modern.”
With Desert Diamonds, the ancient sands of time meet today’s zeitgeist for authentic beauty,” says Sandrine Conseiller, CEO of De Beers Brands “Natural diamonds are unique and rare – no two are the same. Their colors have been forged by nature and perfected over billions of years.”
At Martin Katz, our diamond clients are knowledgeable and discerning, drawn to statement pieces designed to last a lifetime. A cognac diamond embodies this sensibility—distinctive, deeply personal, and unmistakably individual.
Today’s bride seeks jewelry that feels one-of-a-kind—pieces that stand apart while still honoring the enduring tradition of natural diamonds. A truly luxurious purchase is both meaningful and timeless, which celebrates their personal style. A diamond, after all, is forever.
Our clients are confident in their taste and are uniquely expressive in their personal style. They are ahead of the trends—embracing what’s current while choosing something that feels entirely their own.
Sofia Richie and the Modern Wedding Stack
“One of my favorite recent examples of classic jewelry worn in a contemporary way is the Asscher cut diamond eternity band stack I designed for Sofia Richie. The Asscher cut—geometric, architectural —feels especially relevant today when paired with modern styling and personal stacking.”
“Wedding jewelry should be as versatile as the woman wearing it. By designing two Asscher-cut diamond bands for Sofia, we created options—allowing her to play with style, wearability, and proportion, while ensuring each piece feels authentic to her everyday life.”
Old Mine Cuts: Romance and History
Perhaps no recent engagement has better captured the renewed fascination with antique diamonds than Taylor Swift’s ring, widely regarded as an example of an old mine–cushion cut diamond.
“Taylor’s ring is an example of an old mine–cushion cut diamond,” “It has a slightly more rounded, cushion-like shape with facets that reflect light differently—cut as they made them 100 years ago, with a more romantic and soulful presence.”
Old mine cuts date back to the 18th and 19th centuries, long before modern diamond-cutting technology existed. Each stone was cut entirely by hand, resulting in subtle variations that give every diamond its own character.
“Each old mine cut has its own personality, because these stones were cut by hand more than a century ago, long before modern technology.”
It is precisely that historical influence that makes her ring feel so compelling today. Her choice reflects a movement among today’s brides and high-profile clients who are gravitating toward jewelry with vintage and vintage-inspired designs.
This is a chance to blend your individual style with Martin’s distinctive artistry—whether inspired by Art Deco elegance or rooted in vintage design. For decades, Martin Katz has worked with mine and old mine–cut stones, seamlessly incorporating these historic diamonds into his contemporary jewelry.
Each piece is shaped by the stone’s character and form, creating something deeply personal, visually intriguing, and unmistakably Martin Katz.
“It’s a reminder that true luxury isn’t about following trends, but about choosing pieces with enduring beauty and meaning.”
What to Look for in an Engagement Ring
No matter the cut or setting, a few principles always apply:
- Select the shape you love, and that is most flattering for you
- Choose the highest color diamond within your budget
- Focus on balance across all four Cs—cut, color, clarity, and carat weight
- Prioritize quality and craftsmanship
- Select a stone that reflects your personality and that you’ll feel confident wearing for a lifetime
“The quality and size of the stone matters,” I often remind clients. “It’s the setting and the diamond together that set the tone for a timeless piece.”
“Choose the best stone you can afford. It’s wiser to pay a strong price for true quality than to acquire mediocrity at a bargain. Mediocre things do not improve with time, while the best remains beautiful and enduringly desirable.”
A Personal Invitation
At Martin Katz, we offer a curated selection of engagement rings and wedding jewelry across a wide range of styles, cuts, and settings—from marquise and moval diamonds to emerald and radiant cut and brilliant round diamonds to eternity bands and fancy colored diamonds —each handcrafted with intention and artistry.
“I welcome you to my Beverly Hills Penthouse Salon and look forward to helping you select the perfect diamond and setting—one that tells your story beautifully and authentically, and of course, we can create something beautiful for your partner from classic weddings, offering a selection of designs for men and women.”
“It would be our honor to welcome you into the Martin Katz family and bring your dream ring to life with artistry, craftsmanship, and intention.”
To explore our collection or to schedule a private appointment, we invite you to discover the engagement ring that feels uniquely yours.
