Although fancy cut diamonds have been seeing a revival for the past two-three years, visionary and legendary designer Martin Katz has been using them for as long as he can remember. “This business is definitely cyclical on everything from gemstone cuts to jewelry motifs and silhouettes going in and out of style. Jewelry magazines also have a hand in launching jewelry trends and the gem companies will cut stones based on the material they are finding. All of this has been feeding into the return of fancy cut diamonds.”
He continues, “If you are designing for many years like I have been, you will see the cuts go out and come back in again. But I have never been one to follow trends or what the rest of the jewelry pack is doing. I decide with my heart and soul on all of the elements I use in my one-of-a-kind pieces and collections.” he adds.
Martin's affinity for moval cut diamonds
Martin’s uncanny sense for the most extraordinary and expertly cut diamonds result in breathtakingly beautiful engagement rings. His favorites include oval diamonds due their graceful elegance, and their tendency to look larger than their weight. He also is partial to cushion cut diamonds that are a little more elongated yet with the soft rounded shoulders that are distinctive of this shape, emerald cut diamonds with a high crown and larger cut corners, which Martin explains, “produces more radiance than those the many you find in the market.” He also is a huge fan of movals for diamond engagement rings. If you haven’t heard of the moval cut –it is a cross between a marquise and oval shape. “I remember buying my first one in the 1990s,” Martin says. “I had never seen one before, so I thought it was an older stone. It was quite elegant with its rounded tips as opposed to the pointed tips of marquise diamonds and more tapered shaped than the more full bodied oval. I made my first moval engagement ring back then and today since I can only find one that is well proportioned now and then, I have the diamond manufacturers cut them for me.”
Much of the diamond cuts Martin uses are cut exclusively for his pieces. He also has created a setting for all of his engagement rings that use as little metal as possible so that the diamond’s beauty is emphasized. He also creates a setting for which he tapers the basket, so his diamond engagement rings sit lower on the finger. This evokes a more graceful and captivating feeling.
Other types of fancy cut diamond used by Martin Katz
Inspired by his knowledge from collecting and selling of antique and vintage jewelry during his early years in business, Martin’s earrings and bracelets give a nod to his affinity for Art Deco jewelry which he says offers an alluring canvas to work with fancy cut diamonds of half-moons, trapezoids, marquises, baguettes, smaller emerald cuts mixed with classic rounds.
He also features heart-shaped and pear-shaped diamonds for earrings and pendants. As far as hearts, he examines the cleft “which should not look stubby; rather, there should be an evenness to the cleft while the shape as a whole should be a tinge more elongated.”
He has many of his pear shapes cut so that the bottom is much rounder and the stone is longer than those typically on the market. “This is because I prefer pear shapes as earrings and pendants rather than for rings. Unless it’s a 20-carat pear and then it’s a ring.” Martin says with a sense of dry wit.